I just tie a double thickness stopper knot with the rope doubled back on its self just below the trim range knot ( just enough room to fit your hand in between to adjust the trim) and cut off the excess. Yes I have run over my rope at 80 kmh and scared myself witless as it powered up pulling me sideways into a dune. I dumped the chicken loop and safety and spent an hour untangling the bridles. Got back and cut the trim line to length. With it trimmed in I just flick it over my front upwind line on the bar. It has never tangled/or accidentally released since.
I bought a secondhand race bar and the speed cleat was stripped and trim cord kept slipping. I replaced the cleat with no more hassles. It had been used in salt water and the trim line swells/goes hard and doesn’t fully engage the cleat and shears off the moulded angled retainers on the cleat. It’s a standard Ronstan “alloy” speed cleat from a boat shop so easily replaced. (Measure between the screw holes centres for size) Just soak/rinse the line with some fabric softener is all I do as it’s suttle enough to remove the retained salt from my local lake or wet beach.
The race bar has a much larger trim range than a contact bar which is fantastic for those head wind crawl back upwind with a crabfart of wind sheeted right out conditions. The gang was impressed at Kingston at the upwind speed ability of the ozone’s in these conditions
Also check the line lengths and tune to equal length back and front lines with trim sheeted right out, as a little error of 25 mm or so makes a huge difference to a comfortable ride position of the bar on the Chronos and R1’s
Also the elastic flag out line is a different length between the contact and race bar.