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Randy last won the day on January 14

Randy had the most liked content!

About Randy

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    feeling the Rush
  1. single skin power kite

    I used "Prototarp" from Dollar Tree on the first version and surplus 3/4 oz poly from Flymarket on this one. I don't think the choice of material matters that much, but something that is a little bit stretchy is probably best. I think if the material was more stretchy the wrinkles would be a lot smaller, though they do give me a guide as to where bridles might need adjustment. The lighter poly does take a lot less wind to fly than the blue Dollar Tree tarp, but I am always reluctant to use expensive material on a design that is unproven such as this. If it flies then making a second one out of better material easy because I already have the templates and know some of the finer points. BTW - 3/4 oz is a bit misleading. It is measured according to a sailmaker's yard which is 27 by 36 so don't expect an actual yard to weigh 3/4 oz. I've used texlon as my "go to" fabric for single skin and foils I've made and been happy with the results though like the poly it doesn't stretch much.
  2. single skin power kite

    I just hold the two panels together (front side to front side on the inside of the two pieces) and sew them, a few CM at a time until the curve is not so pronounced. Once that's done I sew the rib into place. The guys that are really good do all 3 pieces at once though. Normally, I work from the left most panel and go to the right so I don't have a lot of fabric inside the arm of the machine. The real work is in making the patterns, cutting out the pieces and sewing the rib hems and reinforcements together. Ian's blog shows one way to do it. Once you have all that done, sewing the pieced together is not a big job, if you have some experience sewing (or know someone who does.)
  3. single skin power kite

    BTW - not trying to persuade you to building my "open cell" version - it would be cool to see how the original design compares. My method is a lot easier to sew.
  4. single skin power kite

    This might help. I cut away all the profiles so that the angle is about 90 degrees from the line of the lower hem, and cut away the front of the LE skins so that the amount removed is appropriate. (I measured the cut away distance on each rib using a plastic line.) If I were to do it again, I think I might leave a bit more of the LE in place, but that is just a guess. Be sure to add a hem allowance on the front the rib (which is not shown in the picture.) Also to make life a lot easier for yourself - leave extra fabric on the TE (trailing edge) because it is quite possible the hems will not line up perfectly and this allows you to just cut away as needed.
  5. single skin power kite

    What I did is to modify the design so that the leading edge ends before it wraps all the way around. This would be like changing the design of a closed cell (two skin) foil to make it an open cell foil. If you look at the video closely you can see the front end of the ribs are exposed (and partly cut off). This eliminates to sew the fabric all the way around the leading edge of the rib, great simplifying the sewing. I did have to shorten the two primary bridles on the front the kite. I don't know how substantial the effect on performance, but the wind window and pull of the kite seem pretty good. It does require a very fine touch on the brakes which makes it a bit hard to fly. I don't know if that is due to change. I'm also flying it as 4 line, while the plans seem to show it as a two line.
  6. kite for beginner

    You might check over at Power Kite Forum for people who have the Flux. http://www.powerkiteforum.com/viewthread.php?tid=33909
  7. kite for beginner

    I'm pretty sure that the wingspan is just wrong in that chart. I think that is probably the length of half the span. 1.3*(2.1*2) = 5.5 but since the center chord is widest then the area is probably around 5 M. The area is what you should use. I have a few Pansh kites and the area seems accurate. Good luck with kite buggy.
  8. single skin power kite

    Thanks. Made it much easier to build - that's for sure. My first try with a Single Skin program design, I used the wrap around and noticed the LE was going flat against the wind, which I thought hurt more than it helped.
  9. single skin power kite

    Hey @Powermad 26 I have made a lot of single skin kites but mostly NPW's or variations on NPW's. I have used to Single Skin program to design a few kites, but they were quite simple. The first kite in this video shows one of those kites along with a number of my other single skin kite experiments. My first try at that. It flew well enough but was not outstanding. I have just built a "gkite" also a single skin which I think flies quite well, and I am working on a second version. I modified the design to remove the "wrap around" leading edge, which doesn't seem to make hurt much. This link below provides the plans. This link also provides software that can be used for either paraglider or single skin kite design, though the Single Skin program seems easier to use. http://www.laboratoridenvol.com/projects/gkite/gkite.en.html As for BigE123, I haven't heard from him in quite a while. He is a very talented builder though.
  10. Born-Kite StreetStar

    So do the prices include the bar?
  11. Wanted - Garmin Etrex 10

    They are on clearance at REI for $80 if that helps.
  12. Nasa Star compared to NPW9, or foils/kites

    You can do that was a NPW - off the handles too. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W6jYs7czTgc
  13. Nasa Star compared to NPW9, or foils/kites

    That NABX race was pretty cool. Was it required that they use short lines?
  14. Nasa Star 3 Competition

    Hey I'm Randy and I have a NS2 5.5 M I've used for landboarding. A new NS3 would be a perfect upgrade or addition to my NASA Airforce.