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I've always stuck with Flexifoil pro link handles but my local supplier doesn't stock them anymore. So I've gone for PL allstar handles anyone used them? The're arriving tomorrow with new hq lines for my 3m.

peterlynnallstarhandles.jpg.a7ce501583ee

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They look similar to all the pl handles I've used in the past with the addition of the finger protection sleeve on the top leader.  One failure that has happened on all of my sets is the handles are foam covered aluminum with plastic inserts where the leaders come out of the aluminum to protect from chaffing the leader on the sharp aluminum on the inside of the hole where the knot is tied.  The plastic insert breaks which will expose the leader to the sharp aluminum and will finally break.  Not sure if they were able to address that on these.  You can inspect occasionally by popping the cap and looking.

It still took many sessions to break them, but something to keep an eye on.

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@ssayre thanks for the "heads-up" will keep an eye on that. You would think at this stage of the sport that manufacturers had got the design right. Or do they make to fail to keep us buying. The only problem with my flexis was the rubber eventually wearing from use, which I can accept but failure where the lines are concerned is not good enough. Only time will tell.

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I'm sold on the "XXgrip" handles, as I'm not fond of the knotty junction behind conventional handles. They always snag at the wrong possible time when flying one handed/ only holding the one handle.

There is no leader wear on the XX's, due to the constrictor knot taking all the movement. It's Brilliant!!!

Shortly after I got my first set from Joel and got the strop length sorted out I was totally converted!!!! ;) Gone are the days and the pain to be always replacing frayed leaders where they exited the nylon inserts.

I loved the simplicity of the design. http://www.xxtreme.nl/xxproducts/xxgrips/

The constrictor knot can be a complete bitch to undo after it's been used for a while though, it tightens up unbelievably tight, (so don't fly for too long if it needs adjusting) so it's important to measure your strop length exactly so you can replicate the length when changing the top leader/strop line when they do eventually fray. I just cut them off the handles to replace the cord as they are done up so tight you only damage the cord further trying to get them undone.

 Because of this one single piece of line for leaders and strop, it also doesn't foul up or get snagged in your top lines at all. Also there is no handle protruding up above the top of your leaders to get caught up, if flying with only one handle.

The XXgrip's design of the knot recess in the solid top part of the alloy handle has one side milled away, so the cord within the knot remains flush all the way round each individual handle. A great move. The handles are flown with the knots inside or facing each other. 

Gone are the days and the pain to be always replacing frayed leaders where they exited the nylon inserts.

I've made alloy inserts on the lathe for all my Peter Lynn handles to convert them over to this system. For simplicity I now fly all my PL Vapor sizes on just the one size (450mm large) handles. This means now I only have to pack 2 sets of handles to take with me (1 set as a spare) This has been the only way I can get through a whole buggy meet (covering over a 1000kms) and not have to replace leaders, due to constant wear. The one set I constantly  use have now done over 4000kms and are now looking a little bit fluffy.

I have also modified my strop pulley over to take 2 x sealed stainless steel ball bearings, (made a new HDPE pulley) so it is now totally friction free. All the pulley blocks (250kg yachting) I had used to date couldn't cope with the continual load of the 13.4m2 Vapor and got squeaky/chattery after just a few hours of flying. With these 2x S608 2RS stainless steel bearings fitted into the new turned up pulley, they have done over 3500kms now without a hiccup or needing further lubrication. I packed them totally full of grease from new. 

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This was my original solution to the splitting grommets. I drilled out the Peter Lynn handles that had a brass eyelet to protect the grommet and deburred the hole first. I've never split one of these and they got a lot of use. I still use them on the brake leaders.

I used the black 6.74mm x 4.41 ID trickle irrigation tube and it's really tough material. (This is the stuff the mini sprays/misters screw into.)

All sizes can be made with a bit of practice by judging the depth to insert the centre punch. (sorry about the mixed metric and imperial measurements. My lathe is imperial with metric scales as well so my workshop uses both,,,, often at the same time. ;)

56da74ba2060f_004(2).thumb.jpg.076ecdabe

Don't worry about the transom knot.......... I use this when raft building with my students.

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Just updating this thread as I got a call to explain my mods.

 My mods done to the tops of all my Peter Lynn handles to convert them to the "xxtreme kite handle" method to attach the one piece of heavy dyneema as leaders/strop combination. This system certainly minimizes wear, as all the leader movement to the handles is achieved through a simple knot and not wearing as it exits through a plastic grommet. I have never had to replaced them since converting them.

They do take a bit of fiddling first up to get right, but when a strop length is achieved I copied the system onto all my other handles.

Note; Measurements in thousandths of an inch (as that is what my lathe is calibrated in.)

5b0530de07248_xxtremecopy.thumb.jpg.1224c823fcd858074c5d99bf4fc6b920.jpg

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      This review was originally posted in our Community Forum, October 2007
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