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Northern Kites Australia

Advice seeking on how to tune bridles - A,B,C and Z

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Tuning a kite is not just about making either the steering / front lines longer or shorter. I get that. But for kites that have a mixer like Flysurfer kites, is it the same principle in tuning the bridles? My Pansh is up for sale, but I flew it out of the bag last week for the first time in a year, to see if everything is ok. Alas, the leading-edge crumbled on me when the kite went to 12 o'clock. It doesn't tend to happen along the other areas of the wind-window, such as 3, 2 and 1 o'clock, but only when it's at zenith. And not all the time, sometimes. The problem I think is that when the wind dies down a little, the leading edge collapses, and doesn't hold its shape like a Flysurfer does. The kite used to fly perfectly, and I think some bridles have either shrunk or stretched. I was told that by shortening the B or C (or both), this problem tends to go away. I've not done that yet, but when I do align the bridle connecting points, they are about 2-3cm apart in this order: A is longer, followed by B and then C.

What tips/advice could you give please?

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Thats because its a crap kite. But google mixer adjustment and extended mixer adjustment.  Kiteforum has a long thread on it some where. 

 

Does panch publish bridle lengths? Essentially you measure the a's b's, c's and adjust them back to factory. then extend the brack lines to suit.

Here ya go sift through this. 

http://www.kiteforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=197&t=2390593&p=967192&hilit=extended+mixer+adjustment#p967192

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23 hours ago, plummet said:

Does panch publish bridle lengths?

No they don't. Also don't respond to any emails if you have any questions. Not that they're bad kites, just not the same quality as the top brands and maybe I'm wrong but their R&D seems to consist of un-stitching other manufacturers' kites. At 20% of a top kite's price they're not a bad option if you're on a tight budget although it does help if you or a friend have an idea on tuning a kite. If you have gone this route then best to measure your bridles before flying. I don't know the Aurora but my Blaze III definitely likes a bit of tension on the brake lines.

I don't think this will help @Northern Kites Australia but here is the bridle plan for the 12m Blaze III I measured when new. Lengths are average of left & right hand sides as their manufacture isn't precise and there's up to 15mm difference between lines that should be the same length. If you do use these lengths you won't be out by more than 7mm which is still fine. I should also mention that these lengths are for the bridle lines only and don't include the crappy little lines that Pansh uses to connect the bridles to the kite (first thing I did was get these off and attach the bridles properly). Maybe other Pansh owners out there who've taken the trouble to measure up their bridles could post the plan so we could get a database going?

 

12m_Pansh_Blaze_III_Geometry.pdf

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First off check all lines are equal from left to right. 

If not make them So.

Fly it and evaluate it's characteristics.

If the leading edge is collapsing this can be remedied by lengthening the a lines or shortening the b's. 

Just the b lines will change camber. Keep this in mind as it will effect it's speed and stability if done too much. Though some kites fly ok with a little reflex.

You can shorten both b and c lines, this will keep it's camber and add aoa, this can bring on in effect less depower range. 

The trick is to try these and find what works for you. 

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image.png.44dfcf3f61171defdb5d4236672ea7e8.png

This isn't the standard measurements , it was designed by  Funalex on tubleskites. (Been modifying kites for years). It changes the profile so not as flat but with less twist and flaring of the tips. It Does aid depowering. Like i said it isn't the standard line length, Funalex mods was always worked well from the initial one i done on a blade 3 to my Arcs. 

The aligned mixer
Following this, while waiting for the recommendations of Funalex,

  • aligned the 4 outputs of the mixer (by shortening the C of about 7cm s and the B of 3.5: I doubled the lines between the pulleys and the blue lines).
  • aligned the 2 inputs of the mixer by replacing the front pigtails with longer adjustable house pigtails so that when the ABCZ are aligned the connectors of the front / back lines are also aligned (I think it was about 10cm longer than the pigtails factory).                

Mark

 

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